Artful Anchovies: The Art History Behind the Tinned Fish Revival
Ortiz products on display at a Whole Foods in London. Photo by Georgia Dougherty
Sea bass in salsa verde; spicy mussels in ‘nduja; smoked oysters; butterflied anchovies soaked in extra virgin olive oil. These are just a few of the myriad ways that canned seafood has transformed from cheap staple to the small, vibrant luxury that is quickly becoming a bespoke influence on the culinary and aesthetic world. Not only has tinned fish morphed from a utilitarian food source to a delicious artisanal delicacy, there is another element that has been snatching the attention of small businesses, social media users, and consumers: the artwork that the fish comes wrapped in.
The method of preserving seafood through canning has been around for centuries, but was perfected and popularized by Spain and Portugal, as their warm climates required unique techniques to preserve food sources (a tradition they refer to as “conservas”). Conservas are deeply rooted in tradition and national identity and their packaging reflects this history and maritime politics. Two iconic brands highlight this relationship between canned fish and heritage design elements. The Spanish company Ortiz might be the most recognizable of the bunch: using bright primary colors of yellow, red, and blue, as well as iconic imagery of fishermen pushing a boat out to sea for their packaging. Ortiz dates back to the 19th century and has been passed down through five generations of family. In Portugal, Nuri was founded in 1920 and similarly devotes itself to the highest quality and traditional fishing methods. Their products come wrapped in beautiful retro illustrations depicting fresh fruits and vegetables— hints as to what awaits inside the tin.
Fishwife’s Slow Smoked Mackerel with Chili Flakes, courtesy of Fishwife
Contemporary tinned seafood companies continue the tradition of conservas but with modern twists, furthering the ties between eating, tradition, culture, and art. Fishwife was founded in 2020 with the aim of bringing conservas culture to North American tables. With trendy flavors like “Smoked Salmon with Sweet & Spicy Zhong,” colorful merch, and even a cookbook, they have used social media as a major marketing force. The strong interest in the brand can also be attributed to their vibrant visual identity. Fishwife’s packaging uses the imagery of a traditional fishwife for their products, celebrating the Portuguese tradition and reimagining the historic figure for a modern American audience. Their focus on art is so effective that their product was featured in Vogue.
Different brands have different aesthetics: La Narval uses abstract forms and vivid colors, picking up a tin of PYSCIS feels more sleek and simple, and Jose Gourmet has created a very strong iconography of quirky fish illustrations. So, what’s with this tinned fish revival? Why are so many new brands popping up across the US and UK, what’s causing people to buy more canned seafood than ever before, and why are high-end tins treated as objet d'arts? There are many reasons why canned seafood has continually fed us for centuries: it’s nutritious, convenient, and affordable. Factors from the past five years like the high cost of living and Covid resulted in people wanting to eat cheaper and prioritize shelf-staple foods. The fact that tinned fish is also healthy and full of nutrition makes it even more popular.
More than this though, is the idea that is populated through the aesthetically pleasing design of these products: that tinned fish can be elegant, romanticized, cultural, and fun. This romanticization is most evident in depictions of tinned fish in social media, often served in homemade ceramicware alongside a glass of wine and a crunchy baguette. Instagram accounts like @thesardinfluencer and @daywithmei always feature the packaging of the canned fish as well as what is inside, highlighting vivid labels with colorful illustrations of people and produce. In a large part, it is the artwork that has made canned seafood cool, photogenic, and romantic. And it certainly helps that what’s inside is absolutely delicious.
Merchandise based on canned fish in a boutique in Chicago. Photo by Georgie Dougherty